Posted by: realifemermaid | January 31, 2012

That Perfect Moment

I have always thought that the best moments and experiences were the ones that we simply allow to happen. When you try to twist and arrange time to much, something is going to inevitably become screwed up.

I had my brand new board to take out last weekend. I had ridden a family friend’s board last summer and fell in love with the rocker and maneuverability. 8-6 and a little slower than my 9-0, I sold my old longboard to my dad and had a new board made just for me.

Saturday morning, I got ready to take it out in….teeny tiny super clean, not even knee high surf! Yup. The exact kind a streamlined longboard would be perfect for. Still, I was eager to get my new board wet, and paddled it out to kook out on a couple of waves. I managed to ride two straight in to the beach, and it didnt even matter that i rode them straight in because paddling out here was like paddling on a lake. The morning on my new board was not the magical feeling I remembered from when I last rode my board’s twin, but I wasn’t too worried.

We spent the afternoon diving, trying to find a wreck. Instead we found a coral reef, full of fish and different coral.

The wind changed direction in the late afternoon, ruining any good surf. I was beginning to worry that I wouldn’t get a good session in all weekend!

The wind blew strong all night, and in the morning I convinced Craig to at least come and look at the the surf.

As we were walking, the wind began to die down. A few little menehunes were grabbing their boards to make the best of it.

For one perfect moment of the morning, the wind stayed down when I least expected to be able to surf. It was just me and the three boys.

I quickly and easily caught two waves in the first 10 minutes. My new board was just right for me: it didn’t purl in the bigger messy surf and was quick and responsive.

Coming back from the second wave, I noticed the boys were riding in. First rule of any water sport: never be on the water alone!

I was drifting fast anyway and not looking forward to walking back so far. Luckily a wave was forming behind me. I paddled, dug deep, ripped back, chest up, eyes forward, and popped right up onto the most perfect wave of the weekend.

The most perfect moment.

I planned on riding this wave straight in, but when you exist in the perfect moment, time controls you. I rode it straight for awhile, then noticed the wave peeling to my left, turned, and followed it along the coastline for a good 10-20 yards.

For me, just perfect.

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Responses

  1. Congrats on the new board. Did you get your roof rack or is Craig helping out in that dept?

    Good to see you blogging. I follow a few others here on WordPress.

    Peace out!

  2. Thanks! I got a new soft rack, just barely works on my Civic. And Craig is an awesome surf caddy.

    Any blogs to recommend? I was into livejournal in college and missed writing about random thoghts. 🙂


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